How much? The hidden costs of restaurant dishes

London diners gasp as chefs reveal a £21 asparagus plate makes pocket change

TLDR: Two chefs say pricey London dishes barely make any money once wages, tax, rent, and hidden costs are paid. Commenters were split between sympathy for restaurants, disbelief at the labour costs, and jokes that the story accidentally inspired everyone to cook at home.

The internet has officially entered its "wait, the restaurant only makes that much?" era. Two London chefs broke down the numbers behind pricey plates, and the comments instantly turned into a food-fight over whether restaurants are struggling artists, wildly inefficient, or just serving expensive motivation to learn how to cook. At Apricity, a £21 asparagus starter reportedly brings in just £1.65 profit, while at Teal, a £36 beef dish leaves a jaw-dropping 44p. Once VAT, staff wages, rent, utilities, rubbish collection, and even a cherry picker for chimney cleaning get involved, the romance of dining out starts looking a lot more like an accounting spreadsheet.

But the real show was in the reactions. One commenter basically said, £9 in labour for asparagus sounds bonkers, while admitting that fancy dining used to be the playground of the rich anyway. Another took the article as a personal finance wake-up call: if ingredients are only a small slice of the bill, then maybe the real life hack is just... making lasagna and biryani at home. And then came the home-cook flexers, with one reader declaring restaurant food has lately felt blander and stingier than what they can make in their own kitchen — while also confessing they might just be getting snobbier.

The funniest side quest? Someone clicked expecting a scandal about actual dishes — plates and bowls — and showed up with a story about a San Francisco restaurant surviving by ditching custom tableware. In other words: the chefs served brutal math, and the commenters served even hotter takes.

Key Points

  • Apricity’s £21 asparagus starter is reported to generate £1.65 profit after ingredient, VAT, staffing and operating costs.
  • Chantelle Nicholson says vegetable dishes can be more labour-intensive than meat dishes and notes asparagus has risen from about £9/kg to £15-£20/kg.
  • Nicholson details overhead costs beyond ingredients, including extraction cleaning, fire safety systems and pavement licence fees in central London.
  • Teal’s £36 beef sirloin, short rib and wild garlic main course is reported to generate 44p profit.
  • Sally Abé says rising beef, wine, stock, labour and business-rate costs are squeezing restaurant margins and keeping profits below 10%.

Hottest takes

"£9 of labour cost for a plate of asparagus seems deeply inefficient and unrealistic" — simgt
"As a broke PhD student, my conclusion was that I just need to cook more" — haritha-j
"I thought this was going to be about the actual dish-ware, not food" — comrade1234
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